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Curbing with Rebar

After the path is prepared, rebar dowels are sunken and topped with the plastic guide if "pegging" is required.. Then the rebar is snapped into the guides. The rebar can be bent for curved areas too. Continuous rebar with #3 or #4 is also available without pegging.
The machine is placed on top of the prepared rebar.
And concrete is extruded around the rebar.
The concrete mix envelopes the rebar.
Then we hand finish the extrusion.
And add control joints.
# 3 or # 4 Rebar can be added to curb 6x6 or taller.
Question: Do residential customers need rebar in their curbing?
Answer: In almost every case, the answer is no. Rebar in curbing is specified by architects who are concerned about maintaining the integrity of the extrusion should any large vehicles, like a fire engine, drive over the curbing. Or it may be specified when 6x8 or taller curbing is required to hold back an embankment or severe drainage area. It is used in Commercial projects only.
Question: How do I know if I need pegged rebar or just continuous rebar?
Answer: For commercial jobs, the landscape architect will specify whether or not the rebar needs to be pegged. Continuous rebar helps keep the curbing together should it be broken. Pegging the rebar helps to keep the curb anchored in place.
Note: There is a price difference between continuous and pegged rebar. Price depends on surface pegging into, size of the job, size of the rebar & frequency of pegging.
Application: Rebar cannot be added to 6x4 curb because the curb machine's plunger would not be able to compact and extrude the material through the mold. With 4" tall curbing the rebar obstructs and restricts the "plunging action" required for proper machine operation. If 4" tall curbing is required with rebar, use 6x6 curb and prep the ground so 6x6 curb is 2" below grade.



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